27 Live in Evanston is a Treble-Maker

By LEE A. LITAS
Dining Columnist

What’s better than a one-hit wonder? Why a twofer, of course! That is the mindset of seasoned restaurateur John Tasiopoulos who founded 27 Live in Evanston last year and relaunched it on August 18 with the addendum: Lunch is served.

Now his 14,000-square-foot space with its full stage area capable of accommodating live music and some 600 groupies, private rooms and upstairs Whiskey Lounge has added a new twist in the form of Treble-Maker Grill.

“People don’t know yet to this day that there is a restaurant with this club; they still think it’s all-in-one,” said Tasiopoulos. To the customers who wonder if they can get food with their show, his answer is simple: “You can get food whenever you want.”

Adorning Treble’s tricked-out new front room are portraits of certain members of the 27 Club: Robert Johnson, Brian Jones, Janice Joplin, Jim Morrison, Jimmy Hendrix, Curt Kobain and Amy Weinhouse; all legendary musicians whose sad common denominator is the grizzly fact that each artists died at the tender age of 27. These ‘Patron Saints’ of rock-n-roll watch over the additional 80 souls that Treble-Maker accommodates within its walls.

Pitch perfect:

Executive chef Charles Andersson appropriately reformulated a cool new menu to focus on ‘approachable’ dishes. “We’ve got food for the pickiest eaters and for some of the more gourmet,” said Andersson.

Black Sabbath’s hit ‘War Pigs’ inspired a pulled pork pita sandwich featuring a satisfying spin on a house-smoked specialty. Creamy coleslaw, pickled red onions and a tangy-sweet bbq sauce complete the hearty nosh which fits just right in the hand ($8.49).

Don’t let The Troggs’s “Wild Thing” sausage plate with its duck & foie gras, crawfish and apple-pear sausages intimidate you. After all, it’s still Chicago where every dog will have its day ($14.99).

Jumbo is the only size chosen for the Prince Edward Island mussels ‘Opening Act’ appetizer. Chef Andersson serves them in a slightly-spiced coconut broth. Cherry tomatoes, cilantro and warm pita to sop up the sauce complete the presentation ($11.99).

Entrees serve up double-cut pork chops on richly-spiced jalapeño-bacon cornbread with sizzling Chimichurri sauce. Charred pineapple and green onion toppings are as delicious as they are aesthetically-pleasing ($13.99).

And BBQ Pork “Jimi Cakes” feature house-smoked pulled pork again but now atop delicate dollar pancakes ($6.99).

Now even though it’s lunch, “It’s always 5 o’clock somewhere,” according to sous chef Joe Moore. Hence, Treble’s creative cocktail menu features Jimi Hendrix’s Purple Haze as a refreshing mix of Veev vodka, lime juice, muddled cucumber, soda water and drizzled crème de casis ($9).

Finally, just like the song, Millions of Peaches cobbler is a study in juxtaposition of crispy and succulent textures, and sweet and sour tastes. Vanilla-caramel-honey sauce, a scoop of Homer’s vanilla ice cream and fresh peaches complete the effect ($5.99).

“A la carte your experience,” suggested Moore. “Get a full-on dinner, go to a show and then go for a nightcap upstairs in the lounge. Not many places offer all of that under one roof.”