Libertad: Freedom Never Tasted So Good

The old proverb that ‘good things come in small packages’ might easily be applied to Libertad in Skokie. The small space (only 45 at any given seating), serving small plates in the small suburb of Chicago is nevertheless making a big splash with foodies.

Marcos Rivera and executive chef Armando Gonzales opened the Latin fusion eatery two years ago with the intention of letting freedom reign.

“We are Latin small plates but we go outside the border,” acknowledged Rivera, “To allow Chef Gonzales to do what inspires him.”

Gonzales, whose dream it was to have his own place since he was 17, uses, among others, French, Italian, Mexican and Asian influences to guide his hand when conceiving his creations. Hence the name: Libertad.

“A lot of our guests have never seen these flavors mixed and we continually want to grow on that and give them something new every time they come in,” said Rivera.

The majority of dishes are gluten free and, to accommodate dietary needs, Chef Gonzales will gladly come up with a completely new dish off menu. To keep diners (palates) continually on edge, the duo not only changes the menu seasonally but also the wines and cocktails based on available produce from local farmers markets.

Overseeing the libations are none other than Food & Wine Magazine’s 2011 Sommelier of the Year, Shebnem Ince, and sought-after mixologist, Adam Seger.

“This was my dream,” said Gonzales. “And I am very happy and very proud that I finally did it and that my customers like it so far.”

One of the star attractions in Libertad’s line-up is the Suckling Pig. Chef Gonzales slow-roasts it whole for five hours with honey, wild chile ‘ancho’ peppers and garlic, then fashions a high-end pulled-pork dish out of the buttery morsels. Further heightened with rich truffle oil and bacon, it is served with meaty white beans, kale and a guajillo-honey sauce that will leave you licking not just your lips but possibly the bowl ($18).

Their Lamb Barbacoa will give any Greek Youvetsi a run for its money. Braised for five hours, the tender shank is served ‘au jus’ atop parsnip risotto with ancho-guajillo sauce and agave leaves ($19).

Adorned with a green bean bow, two meaty scallops spiced with yuzu-habanero-butter sauce are served on a bed of black rice for the ‘veneras’ plate. “This is actual black rice, not tinted with squid ink. It’s a different grain, from the Orient,” explained Rivera. ($18).

For starter or side, the chipotle hummus is quite mild despite its name. Mixed with Tahini sesame seed paste, queso fresco and black sesame seeds, it is served with a thick and crispy chapati tortilla ($9).

And the zesty house-made chorizo sausage gives a kick to fleshy Spanish octopus ‘pulpo.’ Fingerling potato, scallions, grape tomatoes and spiced garbanzo beans in a lemon vinaigrette round out this small plate meal ($18).

“Come out and try something completely different,” urged Rivera. “From the first bite it’s like nothing you’ve ever had before.”