Pioneer Press Restaurant Review: High Style in Highland Park

One could argue that the North Shore, and specifically Highland Park, is already rife with fine dining establishments. Nearly equidistant between downtown Chicago and the airy Wisconsin border, this northern suburb is perfectly positioned to offer its citizens, and those of the surrounding communities, a taste of downtown without the hassle of a long drive, traffic or sky-high parking rates.

Not surprisingly, Highland Park has long been a destination for suburban foodies. So when chef Benjamin Brittsan opened his eponymous restaurant on August 10 of last year he already had that stacked against him.

To his aid first came his location, location, location. Situated directly across the street from the Landmark Renaissance Place Cinema, Benjamin was already ensconced in a prime spot for everyone’s favorite night: dinner and a movie.

“We’re in a great area. I couldn’t imagine being anywhere else, really,” said Brittsan.
Add to that mix, Brittsan’s partner-in-crime, his fiancé Nicolette Ann Addante, who is not only a chef but also helped to design their ultra sleek haunt in a romantic/Goth style, complete with Hungarian lanterns from a castle – and the result is a confluence of black, white and animal print elements peppered with architectural pieces that virtually hand-deliver a New York/Soho/art gallery vibe to your backdoor.

Benjamin’s cuisine is equally as chichi yet with enough allusions to ‘down home’ to make this comfort food a decadent escape.

Take their Roasted Pumpkin, Blood Orange & Frisee; wherein a salad by any other name would doubtfully be as whimsical. The al dente cubes of roasted pumpkin innards, dusted with a heather touch of aromatic curry, add a nice point-counterpoint to the crunch of toasted pumpkin and juicy pomegranate seeds. Fennel tops and frisee are sprinkled with tangy blood orange vinaigrette and served with toast points dressed with house-made ricotta, cheese striking a perfect balance between texture and flavor ($10).

The Pesto Gnocchi Gratin appetizer made with Kilgus Farms parmesan and Pecorino-Romano cheeses, truffle oil and a pistachio pesto is rich and satisfying enough to be a meal by itself ($8 small/$10 large), so save some room…

Because the Miller Amish Chicken Pot Pie is a presentation to behold. Covered in mile-high delicate puffed pastry, the extra-hearty dish veritably overflows with large chunks of white and dark meat chicken and seasonal root vegetables. It is then covered with a sweet potato mash, tipping its hat in homage to the shepherd pies of yore, before donning a French chapeau of leavened dough to complete its ensemble. Served with a petite salad ($19).

The pièce de résistance, the Banana Caramelo brings a hot Latin flair to this French-inspired dish. Benjamin caramelizes the bananas then flambés them in a bit of rum and house-made vanilla. It is served inside a crepe cup ala Suzette with a side of decadent cake batter ice cream and candied pistachios all sprinkled generously with butterscotch sauce ($8).

Venturing out to eat locally has just gotten a whole lot cooler.